Stage 2 -- Demolition & Analysis

Demolition was pretty minimal here but I knew I would want to remove the paper thin interior paneling to add insulation and something a little more substantial. While I had it stripped down, I sealed the floor with Thompsons Water Seal. There may be better products, but I had just enough of this onhand to do this floor.

Removing the paneling revealed that I'd have about 1.25" from the outside aluminum to the edge of the floor to work with insulation options. I've heard about creating "air gaps" but I originally thought I'd be putting foam board in the gaps between the "ribs." That will be a little later so I have time to figure it out.

I ordered two RV windows off eBay. I had trouble finding the "perfect" windows at a great price, but finally found some at a decent price. They measure 42" wide and 24" high and slide open sideways. They have built-in screens to allow me to ventilate the trailer, bug-free. With shipping, they were about $350.

During this process, I realized that the way the doors operate, there is no way to lock them from the inside and someone could actually lock me in! So, once I found someone (an RV repair person in Lenoir) who could put the windows in for me, I asked him about putting in an RV door latch as well. I had decided to put in an A/C unit and if I need heat, just use a ceramic heater. My thought was to put one through the front wall of the trailer, but he encouraged me to go with an RV, rooftop mounted unit. The cost would be more, but not a lot more if I bought a used one from him. My only concern is that they are designed for much bigger areas and I've heard that you can oversize an HVAC unit, just like you can undersize one. I drop the trailer off on August 26th for installation of the windows, A/C, and door latch.